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[post_date] => 2023-09-09 19:32:24
[post_date_gmt] => 2023-09-09 19:32:24
[post_content] =>
Getting up at dawn to let the chickens out, then heading back out at dusk to secure the chickens and keep them safe is for the birds. Automate this process with an automatic chicken door!
Automatic Chicken Doors
Chickens follow the sun. They wake and want out at sunrise and head to bed when the sun sets. If you're already up at dawn and home and ready to close the door to the coop at dusk, this is fine. What happens if you aren't an early riser, or you get stuck out one evening and can't get home to close the coop door?
Heaven help you if you don't open that door immediately following the sun rise, those chickens will cluck up a storm and be quite snooty to you for most of the morning. Racoons, foxes, weasels and many other nocturnal hunters would love the chance to pay an evening visit to your coop, so its important to get that door closed at night.
Who has time to keep up with all this?
This is where automatic chicken doors shine! They can be set on a timer, and some detect the level of light.
Solar Chicken Door (Timer Based)
I've been using the JVR Automatic Chicken Coop Door Opener with Timer on my coop for almost as long as I've had chickens now (so 3-4 years). It works well and I only modify the timer when the seasons change. I did have to modify my coop door a bit to accommodate the door track and the piston style arm that open and closes it. The door is aluminum and once it's closed, there is no wild animal that is going to open it, until the timer is ready to open it.
All I need to add was a solar panel (I used a 25 Watt) and a 12 volt battery (I am using a riding mower battery) in a weather tight box.
RUN-CHICKEN Door Automatic Chicken Coop Door Opener
When I was adding additional coops for my other hens and my free-rangers, I was in a hurry. I chose one of the new style chicken doors that uses AA batteries. I meant to replace them when I got some spare time.... That was 2 years ago and they are still going strong on the same AA batteries.
The RUN-CHICKEN Door Automatic Chicken Coop Door Opener T50 has a Timer and a Programmable Light Sensor. I love these door so much that when my original Solar powered automatic chicken door finally dies, I'll just buy another RUN-CHICKEN T50.
It's super easy to install, and it's pretty much ready to go, right out of the box. I have them mounted in the normal orientation on some coops, and sideways on others, giving me lots of flexibility.
[caption id="attachment_445" align="aligncenter" width="300"] If you look real close, you can see the Run Chicken logo.[/caption]
The RUN-CHICKEN T50 is the one I recommend to all my neighbors and they have them on all their coops now! It looks like RUN CHICKEN has expanded their lines of doors and colors too.
I know your milage may vary, but these 2 types of Automatic chicken doors have made my chicken farm a little bit easier. Now you have a couple options, depending on how you want to use your automatic chicken door.
[post_title] => Automatic Chicken Doors
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[post_modified] => 2023-09-09 19:39:07
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Getting up at dawn to let the chickens out, then heading back out at dusk to secure the chickens and keep them safe is for the birds. Automate this process with an automatic chicken door!
Read More »
WP_Post Object
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[ID] => 404
[post_author] => 1
[post_date] => 2022-04-29 15:02:02
[post_date_gmt] => 2022-04-29 15:02:02
[post_content] =>
It's common to purchase your first chicken coop from the internet. It arrives in a box and you must assemble it. Here's some tips to help extend the life of an inexpensive chicken coop.
Extend the life of an inexpensive Chicken Coop
Chicken coops purchased online aren't always built from the most durable materials. They are built to fit into the smallest shipping box possible and are also made from lightweight materials, to save money on shipping costs. This doesn't mean that they can't work for your chicken flock. Some simple modifications and upgrades can make them last for many seasons.
My inexpensive chicken coop experience
Just like many of you, I bought my first chicken coop online. I bought the "Innovation Pet Chicken Homestead Coop, 222-87" from Tractor Supply Company's website. You may have purchased your chicken coop from Amazon, or another online retailer, but these tips should help, regardless of where you got yours.
[caption id="attachment_405" align="aligncenter" width="456"] Innovation Pet Chicken Homestead Coop, 222-87[/caption]
The Innovation Pet Chicken Homestead Coop (222-87) was pretty popular in early to mid 2020. Its a simple starter coop, and is great for a couple chickens, if you allow them out to free range. The "yard" area under the coop is pretty small, so I connected mine to a larger, fenced in 16x16 foot chicken run. This worked great for my 5 chicken flock.
[caption id="attachment_408" align="aligncenter" width="600"] coop connected to 16x16 foot chicken run[/caption]
Essential Chicken Coop modifications
It's never to late to do these modifications, so you can get more lifetime out of your coop!
Reinforced base
The very first thing I did was to assemble the coop, then with help lifted the coop into a frame of built of 2x4 lumber. I drilled holes through the bottom of the coops frame and used those holes to secure the coop to the 2x4's with exterior wood screws.
[caption id="attachment_407" align="aligncenter" width="697"] Coop secured to frame with screws[/caption]
The 2x4 frame added some stability and also allowed me to move the coop, if needed. This modification was one of the most important and has served the coop well for 2 years now, even after moving the coop across our property.
I also added handles, on both ends, to make the coop easier to move.
Replace the roof
The Innovation Pet Chicken Homestead Coop came with a roof made of 4 individual panels of MDF (recycled pieces of wood pressed together), covered with strips of asphalt roofing. The seams between these 4 sections are covered with cheap wood trim. It looks nice enough, at first, but it is not waterproof for very long.
A single piece of 4x8 plywood is perfect to replace the MDF. I had Home Depot cut the 4x8 sheet in half, so I had 2 2x8 sheets of plywood for my roof, which was perfect for the Innovation Pet Chicken Homestead Coop, 222-87.
You'll also need:
a couple bundles of shingles (probably cheaper to buy at a local store)
a roll of roofing paper (probably cheaper to buy at a local store)
staple gun to secure the roofing paper to the plywood
If you've never shingled a roof, make sure to watch some YouTube videos to ensure you know how to do it, to avoid leaks.
Waterproof the cheap wood
The "paint" and stain on these inexpensive coops is not top quality. I highly recommend painting or staining the wood as soon as you can.
I had some leftover deck stain, so that's what I used to treat mine. It may not be beautiful, but it's handing the weather.
Caulk joints and other places water may sit
After the wood stain dried, I used a caulk gun and silicone caulk to seal anyplace water may sit, places where wood joins and where the walls meet the "trim".
Synopsis
These simple modifications should extend the life of an inexpensive chicken coop. Feel free to comment with tips or tricks that really helped your coop stand the test of time!
[post_title] => Extend the life of an inexpensive Chicken Coop
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It’s common to purchase your first chicken coop from the internet. It arrives in a box and you must assemble it. Here’s some tips to help extend the life of an inexpensive chicken coop.
Read More »
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[post_date] => 2022-01-20 22:13:12
[post_date_gmt] => 2022-01-20 22:13:12
[post_content] => This tutorial will help you with changing oil in a Ford 340b, and other similar tractor models.
oil absorbent granules - because oil is going to get on the floor. Every darn time! You're going to spill something sooner or later, so just get some.
Video on the oil change procedure for the Ford 340b (for those who don't want to read this blog post)
For those who don't like youtube videos, the content is below!
Locate and Identify the Ford tractor's oil filter
Determine the location of your tractor's oil filter. On this Ford 340b, the filter is on the Left side, if you are sitting in the tractor seat.
The current filter on my Ford 340b is a Donaldson P550008.
It took me forever to find a compatible filter, but after a couple hours of internet searching, I am pretty sure I found one. Time to drive to my local Tractor Supply Center (TSC) to see if they have what I need.
The CountyLine Baldwin B2 Oil Filters look to be a fit for the Ford 340b, but I'll have to verify this when I get home.
After a quick side by side comparison, I deem this to be a match.
Changing the Oil
Once you have acquired a compatible Oil Filter, like the Baldwin B2 oil filter or the Donaldson P550008 locate the oil plug. On this Ford 340b the oil plug is on the left side of the tractor. Put your oil pan directly under the oil plug.
With the oil pan underneath the oil plug, use your 1 inch socket to remove the oil plug. Be careful this oil plug might be really hard to turn, and you don't want to round the bolt head of the oil plug!
Once the plug has been removed, the tractor is going to be draining 7 quarts of really gross, old oil.
While the oil is draining, do some other handy tractor maintenance. This is when I sit on the tractor seat and make cool tractor noises, and if I'm feeling really handy, I'll clean the terminals and battery connections with a Battery Terminal Cleaning Brush.
Once the oil is done draining, put the oil plug back in and tighten it.
Seriously, put the oil plug back in and tighten it. This is the time to do it.
Now remove the old oil filter. Try not not let oil run out of it onto the floor. Some oil is going to run down the tractor, and hopefully into your Oil Drain Pan. Yeah, maybe.
Before installing the new filter, write the date, tractor engine hours and oil type on the new filter with a permanent marker. Also write this down in your tractor maintenance logs.
Now take some clean motor oil and smear it on the rubber gasket on the new oil filter, then install the new oil filter until it's hand tight. Don't be wienie, but also don't over tighten it. I know, this is vague, but it's got to be kinda tight, but not too tight. You have a tractor, you'll figure it out.
Now it's time to add the new motor oil. Locate the oil filler cap. My 340b has it on the right side of the tractor.
My Ford tractor also has a front loader on it, so this is where the funnel with extension saved me.
The view of the long funnel from the top:
Ford 340b Oil Capacity with Filter Change
U.S. quarts: 7
Imperial quarts: 5.9
Liters: 6.6
Use your dipstick to gauge the oil fullness, not the quarts or liters.
Oil dipstick on my tractor is on the lower right side of the tractor
If you can't find the dipstick, check out the video at the top of the post. A front loader really helps to hide that sneaky dipstick!
Add the motor oil until the dipstick reads full, then start the engine and check for leaks. Then stop engine and check oil again! You'll likely have to add more oil, as some of the oil is now in the oil filter, reducing the amount of oil in the oil pan.
Ok, you are done changing oil in a Ford 340b. You are now ready to tackle anything life throws at you.
I'll be back with another post and video, when I do the next maintenance task.
[post_title] => Changing oil in a Ford 340b
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This tutorial will help you with changing oil in a Ford 340b, and other similar tractor models.
Read More »
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[ID] => 354
[post_author] => 1
[post_date] => 2020-12-20 21:58:00
[post_date_gmt] => 2020-12-20 21:58:00
[post_content] => Driveway alarms are great, especially for rural properties, but there is nothing worse than a false alarm waking you up in the wee hours of the night. Here are a few ways to Reduce False Alarms with Driveway Alarms.
Reduce False Alarms with Driveway Alarms
It's great to know when a vehicle pulls into your driveway. If you are expecting a delivery or company this truly simplifies things.
Many of the driveway alarms available today rely on motion detection technology. This makes total sense because any vehicles traveling down your driveway, will be in motion. A stray animal or debris and plants moving on a windy day will also trigger your driveway alarm.
[caption id="attachment_356" align="aligncenter" width="300"] Chamberlain is one of the popular producers of driveway alarms.[/caption]
Things you can do to reduce false alarms
Ensure there are no bushes or trees with low hanging branches in front of the your driveway alarm.
There is no good way to reduce the number of stray animals or random wildlife from wandering in front of your driveway alarms. In some places cats, dogs, raccoons and deer will set off the driveway alarms so often, the you'll end up just turning it off, to keep the alarm from constantly going off.
What can you do if you keep getting false alarms?
This is the perfect reason to switch to a different technology. There are now driveway alarms that use an electromagnetic sensor. This will only detect vehicles (large metal objects), so no false alarms due to animals, children, etc.
The electromagnetic sensor driveway alarm that has proven effective for many is the Mighty Mule Wireless Driveway Alarm.
The Mighty Mule Wireless Driveway Alarm is super easy-to-install. The Electromagnetic Sensor Wand is buried next to your driveway, and detects vehicles (large masses of metal) moving within a 3-12 ft. radius of the wand.
When a vehicle passes by the sensor, an outdoor transmitter communicates wirelessly to an internal base station up to 400 ft. away, in your home, garage or workshop and sounds a clear and pleasant chime.
[caption id="attachment_360" align="aligncenter" width="300"] Mighty Mule driveway alarm receiver[/caption]
We haven't had a single false alarm, after installing the Mighty Mule Wireless Driveway Alarm, and setting the sensitivity setting correctly. If you get a false positive, turn it down a bit. If you miss vehicles coming and going on your driveway, turn it up a bit. Simple and effective.
NOTE: I have no affiliation with any of these driveway alarm manufacturers, nor have I been gifted, paid or enticed to providing this information. I am a guy who lives in the country and our old motion detection based driveway alarm drove my wife and me a bit crazy, at times. I wanted to share what we figured out.
[post_title] => Reduce False Alarms with Driveway Alarms
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[post_name] => reduce-false-alarms-with-driveway-alarms
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[post_modified] => 2020-12-20 22:06:10
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Driveway alarms are great, especially for rural properties, but there is nothing worse than a false alarm waking you up in the wee hours of the night. Here are a few ways to Reduce False Alarms with Driveway Alarms.
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WP_Post Object
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[ID] => 328
[post_author] => 1
[post_date] => 2020-06-15 12:30:10
[post_date_gmt] => 2020-06-15 12:30:10
[post_content] => If you've added on to your home, or refinished an existing space, you may need to consider adding wireless smoke detectors to your existing hard wired interconnected smoke detectors. This will set off all your smoke detectors if any of the existing or new units detect smoke.
Adding Wireless Smoke Detectors to your existing Hard Wired Interconnected Smoke Detectors
Before you get started please take a few minutes to change the batteries in your smoke detectors NOW, if it has been more than a year. Go ahead, we'll wait right here for you to perform this crucial safety step!First Alert BRK9120b Hardwired Smoke Detectors are a plug and play replacement for many existing smoke detectors, and comes with multiple adapters to fit most, if not all, other types of interconnected hard wired smoke detectors.
[caption id="attachment_329" align="aligncenter" width="300"] First Alert BRK9120b Hardwired Smoke Detectors[/caption]
Perhaps you've refinished your basement, or added on to your home. If you didn't have wiring installed to connect to your existing hard wired smoke detectors you can easily add wireless smoke detectors to your existing hard wired interconnected smoke detectors.
The first step is to shut off the electrical breaker that powers your hard wired smoke detectors!
Now you should have smoke detection in the previous undefended parts of your living space.
Additional Considerations, if your home is more than 10 years old
While you are thinking about this project, consider that smoke detectors have a maximum lifespan of 10 years. Please replace any smoke detectors that are close to 10 years of age or older, and change the batteries yearly.
[post_title] => Adding Wireless Smoke Detectors to your existing Hard Wired Interconnected Smoke Detectors
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[post_modified] => 2020-06-15 13:17:54
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If you’ve added on to your home, or refinished an existing space, you may need to consider adding wireless smoke detectors to your existing hard wired interconnected smoke detectors. This will set off all your smoke detectors if any of the existing or new units detect smoke.
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WP_Post Object
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[ID] => 283
[post_author] => 1
[post_date] => 2020-04-05 22:51:19
[post_date_gmt] => 2020-04-05 22:51:19
[post_content] => Have you been wanting to Connect Solar Panels to RV ZAMP connections. Here is my quick and dirty guide to connecting solar panels to RV ZAMP connections.
Connecting Solar Panels to RV ZAMP connections
We've all heard that Solar Ready RVs and Campers, that use ZAMP connections, have to use the ZAMP proprietary solar panel kits. It turns out that while the plugs are SAE plugs, that ZAMP covers the positive terminal of their SAE plugs, instead of the negative terminal like most other companies.
NOTE: Be sure to do your research, for your RV. I am not responsible if you fry your electronics, get shocked, eaten by trolls or for any other mishaps that may occur!
How to connect to ZAMP connections
ZAMP polarity slowed me down for quite some time. I did my research and crawled under my RV tracing the ZAMP plug's wires. Then I realized that all I needed was a SAE to SAE Extension Cable.
I cut off one the end of the SAE to SAE Extension Cable, the end with the red wire that ends in the silver terminal. I put this aside for future products, since we don't need it for this tutorial.
[caption id="attachment_286" align="aligncenter" width="679"] note the red wire is connected to the exposed silver terminal, on this end.[/caption]
If you cut this cable correctly you should have this portion left. This is the part that we will connect to our solar charge controller.
[caption id="attachment_287" align="aligncenter" width="576"] note the black wire is connected to the exposed silver terminal, on this end.[/caption]
Connecting the Solar Charge Controller
Be sure to connect your positive and negative wires from your SAE connector to your solar charge controller. Yes, you must use a solar charge controller. "Solar Ready" RVs only have a connector that is wired to your coach batteries, there is nothing else included. If you don't use a solar charge controller you will mess up your batteries, and other awful things can happen!
[caption id="attachment_288" align="aligncenter" width="681"] Batteries connect to the battery icon screws, Solar panels connect to the grid or solar panel icon screws.[/caption]
Solar Panels and Charge Controller AMPS
With a single 100 watt solar panel, a 10 amp charge controller should be fine. The Renogy Wanderer 10 Amp charge controller was around $30, and has 2 built in USB ports on the underside, for handy mobile device charging.
How do we know that a 100 watt solar panel will generate 10 amps or less? Math: 100 Watts / 17.5 volt Vmp = 5.7 Amps.
Solar panels have short cables, so you may need to add some Solar panel extension cables, to ensure that you can get your panels in the sun.
Once the 100 watt solar panel and the solar charge controller are all connected together, plug in the SAE connection to the ZAMP Solar Ready port and solar power should start to the RV's batteries.
Mounting Idea
Then I mounted the solar charge controller to a scrap piece of wood, secured the wires to the SAE connector and the solar panels, to avoid them getting pulled easily free. Then I added an eye hook and carabiner on top, to hang the charge controller from one of my storage doors.
I will come up with a better mounting system later on. This is just a portable and fast setup. Later on I'll put panels on the roof of the RV and mount a charge controller inside.
This is how you can connect to your ZAMP Solar Ready port on your RV.
[post_title] => Connecting Solar Panels to RV ZAMP connections
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[post_modified] => 2020-04-06 00:06:51
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Have you been wanting to Connect Solar Panels to RV ZAMP connections. Here is my quick and dirty guide to connecting solar panels to RV ZAMP connections.
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After a few years, your SentrySafe Pistol Safe may not open like it used to. You can easily replace the original strut with an inexpensive replacement gas strut, to resolve that issue.
Sentry Pistol Safe Strut Replacement
Like so many pistol safe owners, my SentrySafe pistol safe lid stopped springing open, after I unlocked it. After months of searches, I was able to locate a compatible gas strut, that fits in the Sentrysafe Pistol Safe, including both the standard version and the biometric model. This is not the same gas strut, that originally came in the SentrySafe pistol safe, but it fits, and it works great.
These Apexstone 80N/18lb Gas Struts come in a 2 pack, for under $10 USD, from Amazon, so you have a spare strut, for later on. All gas struts will eventually fail, over time, so it's nice to know, that you will have a spare strut for the next time.
Compressed Length (Center-to-Center): 5.12 inch (130mm)
Force: 18 Lbs (Per Strut)
BOXI 4053 Universal Lift Support Struts
If you want your SentrySafe to open further, and are fine with spending a bit more money ($22ish) on this project, the BOXI 4053 Universal Lift Support Struts (pack of 2) will open to to a length of 7.50 Inches, and with a force of 25lbs.
End Fitting: Ball Socket U Band (Nylon)=10mm=3/8"=.39"
Springs
I am testing some aftermarket springs also, to give the lid a bit more boost. I will update when I have one that works correctly. Please stand by, while I test and review the springs, for fit and function.
If you are in a rush to replace the spring, you may be able to find a fit in this spring assortment pack.
Make sure to put something in the safe, to keep the lid from falling and locking shut, while performing this procedure. Also do yourself a favor and change the batteries, while you are doing this procedure. I'd recommend some fresh Duracell AA batteries.
Update from a helpful commenter:
In most cases you won’t need any screwdrivers, sockets or wrenches to replace the strut. You should be able to turn the strut body to unscrew the thread at the lid's ball joint, then turn the stem to unscrew the thread, at the eyelet joint in the body. Reverse to install. The threaded ends of the Apexstone units match the stock one exactly, once you remove the ball sockets.
To remove the original strut, use a phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screw on the bottom of the strut, and use the wrench and socket to remove the connection at the top side of the strut.
Once the original strut is removed, the connectors, on the top and bottom of the strut, can be unscrewed and moved over to the new gas strut. The new gas strut has threaded fittings, on both ends, that also unscrew.
Keep in mind, once you install this strut, your lid will not open quite as far as it used to, but it will still open about 85%, well enough to retrieve your belongings from inside the Sentry Pistol Safe.
After a couple years, your Sentry Safe Pistol safe may not be springing open, after you unlock it, this should help you resolve the issue, or to prepare for this, when it does finally happen.
Please share this post on your Social Media and with your other Firearm friends, as there are many gun owners out there, with these types of safes, and they may need to know about this fix! After all, you want that safe to open when you need it to open!
[post_title] => SentrySafe Pistol Safe Strut Replacement
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[post_name] => sentry-pistol-safe-strut-replacement
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[post_modified] => 2020-07-29 16:24:51
[post_modified_gmt] => 2020-07-29 16:24:51
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After a few years, your SentrySafe Pistol Safe may not open like it used to. You can easily replace the original strut with an inexpensive replacement gas strut, to resolve that issue.
Read More »
WP_Post Object
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[ID] => 216
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[post_date] => 2015-10-30 19:18:35
[post_date_gmt] => 2015-10-30 19:18:35
[post_content] => Infidel Body Armor Range Test. This was filmed for a blog that I used to own, years ago. (Post updated 10/2019)
Infidel Body Armor Range Test
This the first time that my team collaborated on body armor testing. Since this first test, I've changed up most of the team members, due to relocation and collaborative differences, and to be honest, a couple of these dudes just couldn't hit the broad side of a barn consistently. This project had a very short runway, so it didn't come out as well as it should have.
Our process has gotten much better, and we have a professional ballistics gel torso mold these days too.
Armor was provided by Infidel Body Armor (https://infidelbodyarmor.com)
Anyway, I hope you enjoy this rather uneventful review of some really great body armor.
[post_title] => Infidel Body Armor Range Test
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[comment_status] => open
[ping_status] => open
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[post_name] => infidel-body-armor-range-test
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[post_modified] => 2020-01-08 17:55:01
[post_modified_gmt] => 2020-01-08 17:55:01
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Infidel Body Armor Range Test. This was filmed for a blog that I used to own, years ago. (Post updated 10/2019)
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In 1985 Martin unveiled its Stinger line of solid body electric guitars. These were manufactured on the Southern Korean peninsula (south of the DMZ). This was coincidentally during the same period in which there was a dramatic increase in quality among Korean manufacturers.
As with most other imported Martin products, Stinger guitars were made in Korea and shipped to the Martin factory for a final inspection and set-up, before being sent on to dealers. Essentially, Martin Stingers are well-made entry level guitars pretty much following conventional lines of the marketplace.
Martin never produced Stinger catalogs, so a detailed accounting is pretty difficult. However, there were four basic Stinger body styles, a fairly conventional Strat shape, a Strat-style with an arched top, a Tele and a Fender-style bass.
These came in a variety of finish and pickup configuration options. Headstocks were a kind of modified Strat-style six-in-line, with a pointed throat and slightly hooked nose, with a painted triangular Stinger logo running under the strings. All had bolt-on maple necks. Guitars had a 25.4 scale, while the basses were 34ers.
The principal difference among the Strats was in finish options. All had 21-fret maple necks, three single-coil pickups, volume and two tone controls, and five-way select.
[caption id="attachment_83" align="aligncenter" width="233"] 1993 Stinger Advertisement[/caption]
Strat-style guitars:
SWG (basic red or black, with maple board and chrome hardware. These had traditional non-locking vibratos)
SGV (red with white graphics)
SSX (duskey, with purple burst (white outside, purple in center), tiara turquoise, blue pearl, metallic white, black and candy apple red finish options, with matching colored maple fingerboard and matching chrome hardware.
The arched-top Strats
SSL-1,
SSL-10
SSL-20.
The Tele
STX (humbucker at the bridge and a single-coil at the neck. This had volume and tone, three-way select and a mini-toggle coil-tap on the bucker. Fingerboard was rosewood, while hardware was black chrome. Finish options included cream, metallic red, purple burst and black.)
Basses
SBX
SBL-10
The core of this early Stinger guitar line can be seen in an undated flyer which could be anywhere from around 1986 to 88.
By the Fall of 1988 the Stinger line, as reflected in a November price list, had rearranged slightly. Still around were the SWG ($281), SGV ($294), SSX ($308), and STX ($330) guitars and the SBX ($337) and SBL-10 ($367) basses, the black SSX and SBX now available in lefty versions (add $15). Essentially these were unchanged in options.
New was the SSX-N ($347), basically the three single-coil SSX with an ash body and natural finish, set off with black hardware and a fixed bridge/tail assembly.
The arched top Strats were still available, but now with new names and details. Gone were the one-pickup SSL-1
Serial Numbers
I called Martin Guitar company to try to get some information on my Stinger, I assumed since I had the serial number I could have Customer Service look it up and give me model, model number, year of manufacture, etc. It turns out that Martin didn't keep track of the serial numbers.
Letter from Martin Customer Service:
Thank you for contacting the C.F. Martin Co. Inc.
Martin did not keep record of the serial numbers on the Stinger Series; therefore, the history on this series is very limited. Here is the information that I have available. In November, 1985 Martin introduced the Stinger Series solid body electric guitars and Basses. Made in Korea, these guitars became widely accepted in a short period of time. Stinger, like Sigma, was brought into the Martin factory, inspected, and set up by C.F. Martin personnel. They were available in a variety of popular styles. There are no longer stock replacement parts for Stinger Electric Guitars.
Thanks for your support.
C. F. Martin & Co., Inc.
Name Removed for Privacy
Consumer/customer Service
Stinger Guitar Specs
MODEL SPECIFICATIONS FOR STINGER ELECTRIC GUITARS & BASSES
MODEL #:
ST-2 Stinger Electric Guitar
BODY STYLE:
Strat Style
NECK:
Maple
NECK WIDTH AT NUT:
1 5/8"
FINGERBOARD:
Maple
FINGERBOARD INLAY:
Black Dots
HEADSTOCK:
Stinger; Contemporary Style
TUNING MACHINES:
Chrome Enclosed
PICKUP CONFIGURATION:
3 Single Coil
PICKUP COLOR:
White
BRIDGE:
Standard Fulcrum Tremolo; Vintage Style
HARDWARE:
Chrome
CONTROL FUNCTIONS:
1 Volume, 2 Tone, 5-Position Selector Switch
KNOB STYLE:
White Plastic
FINISH:
High Gloss
TOTAL # OF FRETS:
21
TOTAL LENGTH:
38"
SCALE LENGTH:
25 3/8"
STRINGS:
Darco Electric D-9300 Extra Light Gauge
CASE:
Optional Softshell or Hardshell Cases Available
COLOR Options:
Red, Black, or White
Stinger Bass Guitar Specs
Missing
All information was dug up online. Alot of it was at http://www.guitarsite.com/database/Guitars/rec/1435/ and was posted by an individual on that site. I was unable to locate his post to give him credit.Pictured Stinger guitar is from my personal collection.
[post_title] => Stinger Guitars
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Stinger by C.F. Martin In 1985 Martin unveiled its Stinger line of solid body electric guitars. These were manufactured on the Southern Korean peninsula (south of the DMZ). This was coincidentally during the same period in which there was a dramatic increase in quality among Korean manufacturers. As with most other imported Martin products, Stinger guitars were made in Korea ...
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[post_date] => 2006-01-06 18:56:06
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[post_content] => The AK47 is known for it's ruggedness and its ability to perform with sand and grit choking its internals. Regular cleaning and maintenance will extend the life of your trusty AK. Here's a handy guide on AK-47 Cleaning and Maintenance!
AK-47 Cleaning and Maintenance
Many different methods of cleaning your AK-47 type rifle are discussed among AK enthusiasts. The methods are really diverse, and unlike any other type of military weapons, may include terms like “garden hose”, “dishwasher” and “local car wash”. The rugged design of the AK-47 and its inherent simplicity allow its maintenance to be discussed in such words. It is a compliment, to a military rifle designer, to have upkeep of his firearm design discussed in terms like 30 weight motor oil and bearing grease - both viable options with the AK-47!
First step- Cleaning Products (Pick and choose)
CLP BreakFree – “CLP Breakfree” is the stuff you hear discussed most of the time in military rifle circles. This stuff is amazing. Since I’ve never had trouble with my guns after using this stuff, I would have to agree. CLP stands for Clean-Lubricate-Preserve. It has a lubricating Teflon ingredient and is a superb solution for all basic gun needs. It was developed for the US military and is marketed to the public.
Gunscrubber or Brake Cleaner – This stuff is an aerosol, high pressure cleaner. It cuts grease and carbon and evaporates to leave bare, dry metal. It will attack many plastics, wood finishes and paint, so test it first. Use eye protection- the high pressure jet stream will rebound off of corners and flat surfaces and blind you. Go outside too- the fumes will knock you back to third grade. I wear gloves, for this stuff is a carcinogen and probably much more. If it gets under a ring on your finger you will feel it for days. Now, all that said, this is the easiest and most effective way to degrease a gun. It cuts through most carbon deposits too. The downside- if the health risks weren’t enough, are that it is expensive. Gunscrubber is around $5 a can, brake cleaner is around $1 to $3. One can will disappear quicker than you expect. Some folks use Carb cleaner. Carb cleaner is a much more aggressive solvent and leaves a slight lubricant behind. In a pinch it will substitute for brake cleaner, but it isn’t recommended.
Light Gun Oil – This is the basic machine oil we are all familiar with. Its great for general protection of all metal surfaces. Light gun oil can be used on bare wood in a pinch.
Powder Solvent – Hoppes No. 9 comes to mind as the most common brand. This stuff is good for cleaning the bore of powder residue and carbon buildup. If you have guns at all, you probably have some of this stuff.
Heavy Grease – Any type of heavy lubricating grease works well on an AK-47, though synthetic grease with Teflon additives or lithium type grease works best.
Motor Oil – Yes, Motor Oil. Use oils that have no additives like Mobil 1 synthetic. Actually, Bushmaster recommends motor oil for the exterior of their AR-15 rifles, but only non-detergent. Detergent oils and oil additives are specifically NOT recommended because they may degrade the clear sealant Bushmaster applies over the phosphate finish. I doubt if many AK-47s have this clear sealant, however. Motor oil will work as a general overall lube, even on the bolt-carrier rails.
Automatic Transmission Fluid – ATF is jus a basic oil, it has fewer additives than motor oil and is used with great results as a general lubricant by many AK-47 owners. Its like the poor comrade’s CLP and for lubing an AK-47, it seems fitting that ATF is RED
WD-40 – WD-40 stands for “water displacement #40”, and is a fine general purpose solvent. There are two schools of thought about WD-40. Some swear by it, claiming it is great as a cleaner and protector, but that it should never be used for lubrication. The other school says “WD-40 will never touch my guns!”. That’s because it leaves a residue behind that becomes sticky and gummy with age. If WD-40 is allowed to pool up in corners and crevices (around firing pins?) it can cause parts to stick. I personally use it as a flushing agent, but don’t rely on it for rust protection as it is not designed for long term protection. As a water displacement product, it drives water out of the gun, but that’s where its effectiveness to the gun owner ends, especially in humid climates.
Bore Brushes – Get some. Bronze or brass is best to get the garbage out of the rifling grooves. Bore solvents like Hoppes only do so much on stubborn gunk.
Chamber Brushes – Brass bristle chamber brush for scrubbing out the receiver and chamber is a necessity. A toothbrush will suffice in most cases.
Bore Patches & Rod - Need I say this? If you have no cleaning rod and don’t know what I’m talking about, sell your guns. I find the AK rod is not the tool I want sliding down my rifle’s bore- its too hard! I use a cheap aluminum rod from those $5 cleaning kits. Patches need to be small enough to move through the bore, but not so tight that you bend your rod. Use .30 caliber patches or cut a tee shirt into 1″x2″ rectangles.
12 gauge bore brush (for the AK gas tube) – Get a brass or bronze one for cleaning your gas tube. Make sure you have a shotgun cleaning rod to attach it to as it will not fit on your rifle cleaning rod.
Simple Green – This water-based, biodegradable de-greasing cleaner is great for gun owners who don’t like the noxious chemicals we normally use. With a toothbrush, Simple Green is great stuff. Dry your gun parts in the oven for 30 minutes of so after using any water based product or you may find rust forming overnight.
Field stripping the AK-47
Before you start field strip your gun, ensure that its unloaded- check it, then check it again! Every gun is loaded!
Remove the top cover off of the receiver by pushing the button on the rear of the receiver cover and lifting the cover up.
After the cover is removed, slide the receiver retainer button that held the receiver cover down forward until it disengages from the trunnion that holds it in place.
This will allow you to slide the recoil spring out of the bolt carrier.
Next, pull back the bolt to the rearmost position and lift the bolt carrier/gas piston assembly out of the receiver. Watch the bolt! It is loose and with a turn will fall out.
Remove it by turning it until the locking tab is clear and you can slide it forward and free.
Finally, with the bolt carrier/gas piston assembly removed, lift the lever on the right side of the gas block up by rotating it clockwise.
The gas tube/upper hand-guard assembly will be loose now and you can move it upward and off the gun.
That’s all that is required to field strip your AK-47, and it is ready for cleaning.
Initial Cleaning
First, I apply CLP to the parts that I can get at with a toothbrush and scrub. This includes the bolt carrier/gas piston and the bolt itself. I also use Hoppes #9 on the bore by passing a saturated patch down the barrel. You can use any solvent here that you wish, from kerosene to WD-40. The idea is to flush out the grunge and scrub off the stubborn carbon deposits. The brass brushes will come in handy on the gas piston and the bolt face. Run the shotgun brush down the gas tube a few times to knock out any carbon in there. Check the gas port too, making sure the channel leading to the barrel is open and free of carbon. A special tool is available for this, or a length of coat hangar will substitute just fine.
Degreasing
Once I’ve loosened the really nasty grunge with the toothbrush and flushed with cleaner of my choice, I spray off the interior, parts and bore with brake cleaner to get the cleaner and remainder of the grunge off. This step leaves a nice, greaseless, bare metal finish.
Lubrication
Using CLP, I lube all operating parts. Inside the receiver, go ahead and coat the whole thing in a light film of CLP or light machine/gun oil. You don’t want any rust in there! I use Tetra grease on the rails. I give it a good coat with my finger, but it really doesn’t need much as this stuff leaves a film behind even if you can’t see it. A large blob of grease only attracts dirt.
Protection and Storage
Use CLP here. Some folks prefer Motor oil, Automatic Transmission Fluid, or light gun oil. With a rag, wipe down all exposed metal with CLP- interior and exterior, parkerized, blued or otherwise. Get it all. A slight film is all that is required to protect the gun.
And that’s it!
Alternate cleaning methods for the AK-47
Field strip, run the water hose through it, dry in sun, squirt with motor oil, reassemble.
Field strip, put in dishwasher, run cycle, dry in over at 250 degrees (without stocks of course), squirt with motor oil, reassemble.
Hose down the whole thing with the local car wash pressure washer. Stick on radio antenna to dry while driving home. Dip in motor oil. Store.
Sound insane? These are all methods people have actually used! I use the dishwasher when I really want to degrease a gun. To prep my SAR-1 for refinishing I had to remove all grease and lubricants inside and out. I used gunscrubber gets the initial layers of grease/oil off, then heated the metal parts in the oven for a while to drive the grease out of the tight spots and from between the stampings and metal-to-metal areas. I’d then concentrate on that area with acetone and a brush. I repeated the process a couple of times until I had removed as much grease and oil as humanly possible. Once done, in the dishwasher it went, broken down of course. When the dry cycle was over, I put it back in the over to drive out leftover moisture and then proceeded to refinish the surface.
Make sure to keep your AK-47 clean and maintained so that it will last you a lifetime. The AK47 is still an awesome weapon platform with many AK-47 Accessories available to customize it for any need or use.
This page was originally located at https://www.geocities.com/yak23flora/html/AKclean.html, but the original page disappeared at some point. This is a very slightly modified mirror of the original content.
[post_title] => AK-47 Cleaning and Maintenance
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The AK47 is known for it’s ruggedness and its ability to perform with sand and grit choking its internals. Regular cleaning and maintenance will extend the life of your trusty AK. Here’s a handy guide on AK-47 Cleaning and Maintenance!
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b3ck.org I tinker. I fix. Therfore I am.
Getting up at dawn to let the chickens out, then heading back out at dusk to secure the chickens and keep them safe is for the birds. Automate this process with an automatic chicken door!
All I need to add was a solar panel (I used a 25 Watt) and a 12 volt battery (I am using a riding mower battery) in a weather tight box.
It's super easy to install, and it's pretty much ready to go, right out of the box. I have them mounted in the normal orientation on some coops, and sideways on others, giving me lots of flexibility.
[caption id="attachment_445" align="aligncenter" width="300"]
If you look real close, you can see the Run Chicken logo.[/caption]
The RUN-CHICKEN T50 is the one I recommend to all my neighbors and they have them on all their coops now! It looks like RUN CHICKEN has expanded their lines of doors and colors too.
I know your milage may vary, but these 2 types of Automatic chicken doors have made my chicken farm a little bit easier. Now you have a couple options, depending on how you want to use your automatic chicken door.
[post_title] => Automatic Chicken Doors
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It's common to purchase your first chicken coop from the internet. It arrives in a box and you must assemble it. Here's some tips to help extend the life of an inexpensive chicken coop.
Innovation Pet Chicken Homestead Coop, 222-87[/caption]
The Innovation Pet Chicken Homestead Coop (222-87) was pretty popular in early to mid 2020. Its a simple starter coop, and is great for a couple chickens, if you allow them out to free range. The "yard" area under the coop is pretty small, so I connected mine to a larger, fenced in 16x16 foot chicken run. This worked great for my 5 chicken flock.
[caption id="attachment_408" align="aligncenter" width="600"]
Coop secured to frame with screws[/caption]
The 2x4 frame added some stability and also allowed me to move the coop, if needed. This modification was one of the most important and has served the coop well for 2 years now, even after moving the coop across our property.
I also added 
With the oil pan underneath the oil plug, use your 1 inch socket to remove the oil plug. Be careful this oil plug might be really hard to turn, and you don't want to round the bolt head of the oil plug!
Once the plug has been removed, the tractor is going to be draining 7 quarts of really gross, old oil.
While the oil is draining, do some other handy tractor maintenance. This is when I sit on the tractor seat and make cool tractor noises, and if I'm feeling really handy, I'll clean the terminals and battery connections with a 
Once the oil is done draining, put the oil plug back in and tighten it.
Seriously, put the oil plug back in and tighten it. This is the time to do it.
Now remove the old oil filter. Try not not let oil run out of it onto the floor. Some oil is going to run down the tractor, and hopefully into your 
Before installing the new filter, write the date, tractor engine hours and oil type on the new filter with a permanent marker. Also write this down in your tractor maintenance logs.
Now take some clean 
Now it's time to add the new 
My Ford tractor also has a front loader on it, so this is where the 
The view of the long funnel from the top:
Ford 340b Oil Capacity with Filter Change
If you can't find the dipstick, check out the video at the top of the post. A front loader really helps to hide that sneaky dipstick!
Add the motor oil until the dipstick reads full, then start the engine and check for leaks. Then stop engine and check oil again! You'll likely have to add more oil, as some of the oil is now in the oil filter, reducing the amount of oil in the oil pan.
Ok, you are done changing oil in a Ford 340b. You are now ready to tackle anything life throws at you.
I'll be back with another post and video, when I do the next maintenance task.
[post_title] => Changing oil in a Ford 340b
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This tutorial will help you with changing oil in a Ford 340b, and other similar tractor models.
